Making new gates

[carealto]

While we have been offered a loan of extra poles for the forthcoming Tynedale div 2/3, we are looking to make up our stock to have adequate numbers of gates.

Number boards seem straightforward - an 8' x 4' sheet of plywood cut at the builders merchants into 32 1 sq foot pieces and each painted white. Numbers stencilled on with 20omm number stancil in black indelible marker (both sides) and crossed through in red indelible marker on the back - is this ok?

Poles are more difficult - the initial thought was broom shanks - but at 1 1/4" diameter and 120cm lengths these are too thin and too short. Plumbing waste pipe is too light - though 4m lengths of 40mm pipe would be convenient for sizes - would these work if weight is added by filling them with something? Any other ideas??

[jim croft]

Hi I Managed to get the correct size poles from Jewson The Builders Merchents albeit they had to cut down as they were a foot to long, number boards I had made at a sign writers cheaper than ply wood.
Jim

[Seedy Paddler]

We did make up poles with plastic pipe before at Aberdeen Uni, we filled in one end (it was back in the 80's and we used pitch - but silicon should be just as effective). There are still a couple remaining in the Aberdeen slalom set 30+ years later. From memory we tried a couple of experiments by adding sand to add weight but it left a mess when deconstructing and taking the poles back to the Uni store. Best option was to dip the pole in the water if it was in a windy location.

I think your number boards should be yellow background - but that could be an old rule. It was originally white, then changed to yellow - not looked to see what it is now!

CD

[jke]

...4m lengths of 40mm pipe would be convenient for sizes - would these work if weight is added by filling them with something? Any other ideas??

Put concrete in the ends to weight the poles.

With a piece of foam (the rougher packing foam is easier to cut through than the black canoe padding foam) around 2cm thick use the pipe as a borer (it helps if the end has been rough cut). Remove the disc of foam, and using Evostik glue it back in to the end of the pipe.

Take some dry concrete mix (you will have to experiment with how much) and a large funnel and pour the mix down the tube, followed by some water. Allow to set.

Colour the poles using sticky back plastic (d-c-fix).

[Canadian Paddler]

Sorry rule geek: The rules say that the number board background should be yellow or white. Just that most clubs have moved to yellow.

Pole Geek: Poles are traditionally weighted at the bottom, but research has led to the ICF recommendation that they are actually weighted near the top (http://www.canoeicf.com/dms/icf/documen ... nance.docx (page 2) This (amazingly) has the effect of both reducing the swing time, and making a touch more obvious as the pole movement is different to that from wind. This can be achieved by putting in a bung (aka foam block) pushing it down to the required position, pouring in sand, then sealing the top. (Note to Scottish Students of long ago, leave an open end and there WILL be a mess.) This can be seen not to cause a mess by looking at the heavier LVC poles, weighted before the games and still going strong.

Pole geek 2, seal BOTH ends of the pole. This traps air inside the pole and ensures it floats when someone drops it in the water. You MAY be lucky if open ended poles drop in the water, depends on how much you have weighted it!

Pole Geek 3: If you put holes in the top for the baler twine to be pushed through you will spend hours doing this at each event, and someone will tie the pole tight at one side, so that it moves as it turns. Metal coat hangers can be cut up and used to put metal loops at the top of the poles, using the same holes. These encourage tying at the top so the pole does not move.

prejudiced pole geek: Wood needs more maintenance, (Painting) and cannot be differentially weighted. I would not go there.

Rule Geek 2: Do not forget the black band at the bottom of the pole. If black electrical tape was good enough for the games it is good enough for us - and it was.

OK enough Geekery Hope all goes well

[JohnMac]

Plastic poles? 32mm plumb waste pipe will suffice, outside diameter 36mm. These make excellent portable training gate poles to put in the back of the car. Yes plastic alone is too light in wind for competition and serious training.

Avoid building in rigid-flexible weakness points on plastic poles (concrete?). Top weighted in sand with holding plugs works. Bigger diameters catch more wind.

Current favourite: two pipes, one slotted lengthwise, to double up to 4mm wall and and with end plugs come out at 1100 grammes (1600mm long) with rings in coloured vinyl. Right now using top weighted in sand to 1800 grammes (sinker). The straightest plumb waste pipe come in ABS, solvent weld. I use 'Hunter Plastics' through BPS.

If sand filling 36mm diameter 1600mm poles to 1500 grammes approx they still float. The 2500 grammes poles used for London 2012 and GB selections are top weighted - they sink. Take care, gate suspension gets extra stressed with heavier poles!

Understood that Nottingham are Iroko wood, 2kg, 40mm diameter, 1800mm long, painted. These last well, hold paint and resist rot. A good performer in wind.

Foam fill? End plugs? Centralised suspension point? Black ring? Vinyl? Paint? Shrink wrap? All cost.

Most economical useful poles may be down the local saw mill or fencing makers, rough sawn to size, router off the corners and paint! Manchester possibly still uses some from 1967!

[Canadian Paddler]

Foam fill? End plugs? Centralised suspension point? Black ring? Vinyl? Paint? Shrink wrap? All cost.

... forthcoming Tynedale div 2/3

But as these are gates are to run a slalom, not just training gates they will need colour, either paint or vinyl and will need the balck band.